Coloring Pages


I'm starting to add Coloring Pages to my etsy shop! Eventually I'll look into making a physical coloring book that people can order. But right away people can buy a digital download of just the image desired to print and color as many times as you want! My focus to begin with will be African Safari animals, because that is the jewelry line I'm currently designing. More on that in a month or two as I get the first designs carved in copper clay.

My African Safari designs will all be drawn using reference screenshots from watching SafariLIVE. If you aren't familiar with SafariLIVE, check it out and become an addict like me!


English Pendant Ocarinas - hand drawn with 3Doodled Plastic

Last updated 9-17-15

Plastic Ocarina Pendants in the English style.  Tough, elegant, and individually handmade and tuned to be "in tune with itself."  To see what I currently have available for sale, please visit my etsy shop.

Each ocarina is drawn by hand with a 3D printing pen and signed on the back.  They come with a jewelry cord and a songbook.

FAQ: Which Ocarina should I get, metal, plastic, or ceramic?  My metal ocarinas double as fine jewelry, and won't break if you drop them on the floor.  They do however have the characteristics of a metal ocarina.  They heat up as you play, which slightly alters the sound.  Also when played for a while moisture will build up in the wind way, potentially hindering playing.  They are best played for brief periods, just a few songs at a time.  My plastic ocarinas are also very durable, but cannot hold as much detail in design.  Plastic offers a variety of color options, the ability to come in a larger size, and can also be cleaned easily.  I personally enjoy playing the plastic ocarinas more, and wearing the metal, I like both.  I don't make ceramic ocarinas, so if you'd like one of those, you should continue your search!

Plastic Ocarina Care:
The ocarina can be gently hand washed with warm soapy water.

I can make you a 3Doodled ocarina to order, the minimum wait time will be 3 weeks or more depending on my waiting list at the time.  Contact me for an exact quote, which will be based on the following price guide.

Custom Ocarina Price Guide:

4 hole ocarinas will play an entire scale of 8 notes, 6 hole ocarinas play up to 10 notes.  The 4 hole ocarina is higher in pitch because it is smaller.

Size 1 -  Plain plastic 4 hole English Pendant Ocarina - Base Retail Price - $100
This size is perfect for wearing as jewelry all day at the Faire.  It is only available in 4 holes.

Sound Samples are a preview to give you an idea of what each size will sound like.  Each one might be in a slightly different key as they are each made by hand.

Whiskey In the Jar Sound Sample, Size 1, 4 holes:

Size 2 - Plain plastic 6 hole English Pendant Ocarina - Base Retail Price - $150
Very large for a pendant but with an even deeper sound that is enjoyable to play and fits in the hand well, especially for larger hands that might have a hard time holding on to size 1.  2 thumb holes are added to the bottom of this pendant for 2 additional notes, increasing the number of songs that can be played.

Saria's Song / Lost Woods Sound Sample, Size 2, 6 holes:

Size 3 - Plain plastic 6 hole English Pendant Ocarina - Base Retail Price - $200
VERY large for a pendant but with an even deeper sound that is enjoyable to play and fits in the hand well, especially for larger hands that might have a hard time holding on to size 1.  2 thumb holes are added to the bottom of this pendant for 2 additional notes, increasing the number of songs that can be played.

Ocarinas can be ordered plain in black, white, or brown ABS plastic so that you can doodle or paint your own design on top!

Alternately: Additions to make it more awesome!
  • Simple stone setting +$20 each, price dependent on type of stone, inquire for available stones and an exact price.
  • Multicolored plastic swirls +$15
  • Hand doodled design of your choosing, for example, a simple sketch of your pet +$50 or more, depending on the design.  Keep in mind that precise detail is not really possible with the 3Doodler, your design will be impressionistic.  See other finished designs for examples.
Custom designs are not returnable

My 3Doodler 2.0 review


I am the proud owner of two 1st generation 3Doodler pens, backed on Kickstarter.  And I also backed version 2.0.  I won’t give all the details as to why the 2nd pen is more awesome than the first, the nice people at WobbleWorks make that pretty clear, and I wholeheartedly agree.  Smaller, doodles longer and more consistently, less noisy, etc, still really awesome.

What it is not, is magic.  Awesome is good enough.  But it doesn’t do magic, you do need some practice to make stuff.  But you don’t have to be an amazing artist, tracing will get you really far very quickly with this pen!  I prefer to trace my own stuff, so here is the new thing I’ve made.

3Doodled ocarinas!  These bad boys sound great, they are in tune with themselves, and they have endless color potential.

A sample of how it sounds:

I made them pretty much the same way as my copper ocarinas but with a plastic twist.  Honestly, it is easier to make them out of metal clay than it is to draw them with a 3D printing pen, but that wasn’t going to stop me!  Metal clay very much limits me in size, only so much will fit inside my kiln, and also in cost of materials.  I intend to make ocarinas in larger sizes to see if I can.  And the bigger they are, the more complex designs I can add!  I’m thinking of a large bass ocarina with Mario and his buddies rampaging across it.  Adding stones to the plastic ocarinas was much easier than adding them to metal however, because I’m not very good at bezel setting yet.  The only concern was the stones heat up fast, so you have to be careful to not burn your fingers.  These have ocean jasper and cubic zirconia accents.  But I digress!

You can use one of three different kinds of plastic with the 3Doodler currently, all sold from WobbleWorks’ website.  I highly recommend buying plastic from them, as the plastic is perfectly straight and of a quality that is guaranteed to work with the pen.  Plastic on spools increases the risk of jamming, which is not fun, so you should use separate plastic from your 3D printer if you are lucky enough to have one.  (Someday we will buy one!  The small ones for home use keep getting more affordable.)

Flexy and ABS plastic work fantastic in the 2.0, the closest thing I have to a complaint is that I would like more colors to buy!

Flexy is rubbery, and it flexes after drawn.  Pretty nifty!  I made this creepy moon spider mini for Pathfinder (D&D) with it!  

ABS is standard plastic.  It is pretty tough, and you can carve it easily with an x-acto knife, which  I did to form the voicing and get the sound holes the right size to make my ocarina in tune with itself.  

And PLA is my favorite, it is made from corn and 100% compostable, so I don’t have to feel bad about plastic scraps!  It is NOT easy to carve, and while tough, it is more brittle than ABS.  It also doesn’t seem to want to work as well as the other plastics for extruding.  Lots of people have complained about PLA with the 2.0.  It doesn’t melt the same as ABS, and that just has to be accepted from the beginning.  This plastic is for tracing or adding on to layers of other plastic, not doodling in the air like you see in the videos online, you want ABS for that.  I had additional problems with my pen jamming with PLA, it was actually becoming jammed with every single strand, which seemed excessive.  Customer Service was super fast to respond and help me with my problem.  I’ve opted not to send my pen in for repairs (software problem causing the pen to not get hot enough on he PLA setting?) because turning up the temperature seems to have made it work much better.  The pen still becomes blocked occasionally, but I expect that is something which will occur infrequently no matter what.  The PLA is more likely to create a blockage if you extrude slowly or pause while doodling.  

The great news, is that the 3Doodler 2.0 has a maintenance hatch!  That sucker did NOT want to come off on my pen.  I resisted opening it for a very long time because it ideally shouldn’t have to be opened.  And then it was hard to get off, and this made me afraid that I was going to break my pen trying to follow the instructions.  But eventually I managed to jog it loose, or use enough force, and I popped the little metal bit out.  Some plastic flashing came off when I replaced the cover and put the metal piece back in.  After that, it has been very easy (just like in the video) to get the maintenance hatch on and off to clear up plastic that has wrapped around the gears, and I don’t hesitate to do so.

The metallic colors of PLA seem more likely to cause a blockage than any other color, so I’m going to use them sparingly in the future.  The clear colors are lovely!  

A variety of accessories are available for the pen.  I have the NozzleSet.  I haven’t had a chance to try all the different nozzles yet, but the smoothing tool alone is worth the cost.  Previously I had just used the side of the nozzle on the pen to smooth.  But it wasn’t very accurate, and it was messy.  The tool provides a superior shape for getting into detailed areas or just smoothing a large area effectively. 

A few quick tips!  Lots of people have had problems with the included cleaning tool getting stuck inside the pen, or the tip of it breaking off inside necessitating removing the maintenance hatch to get it out.  I have found no use for the tool personally, so I’m just ignoring it.  A small pair of pliers to remove the hatch and an x-acto blade to clean plastic from the tip of the nozzle are treating me well.  Also, you can potentially use another piece of plastic to gently push a blockage through more effectively than the cleaning tool can.  When plastic gets stuck inside the pen, sometimes it can be unblocked by removing the nozzle, ALWAYS REMOVE THE NOZZLE WHILE HOT OR YOU WILL BREAK YOUR PEN, and carefully fishing inside with a straightened paperclip or similar wire.  

Overall, this pen is amazing, and I highly recommend it.  4.5 stars out of 5, I’d increase that to 5 if the maintenance hatch was easier to deal with and sturdier from the beginning, which I very much expect will be addressed with the next model.  2.0 is so very much better than the first version, and I look forward to seeing what they come up with for the next one, I will certainly back that on Kickstarter too!  In the meantime, I’ve collected almost every color of plastic offered, and I have doodling to do.  Hope everyone enjoys their 3Doodler!


Lin the Ball Jointed Doll

Last updated 8-3-15

I positively love the way ball joint dolls can seem to come to life and be posed in a myriad of different ways.  I've wanted to make one for years, but I never make enough time available to complete one.  This delicate little sculpture is Lin by Nefer Kane, Nefer's dolls are all so unique and possess much personality.  I preordered her here:

I ordered a blank doll so I could have the joy of painting and costuming her myself.  I plan to paint her last, as I've never painted resin before and I am not looking forward to taking her apart to do it!  Everything but the sculpture will be done by me.  Designing and hand sewing clothes, making a wig, making custom jewelry, and painting her and her friend baby Cthulhu!  Baby Cthulhu is a Monster Minds sculpt I pre-ordered blank on Kickstarter.  If you want your own, you can contact the artist here:

Once I'm done working on Lin, I plan to start making Ball Joint Doll jewelry to sell on etsy.  Both jewelry intended for dolls to wear, AND Ball Jointed creature jewelry meant to be worn by people.  A mer-cat is currently my plan for the first doll, but no promises.  I work better on whim!

Work in Progress Photos:
I made her some bling!  The bracelet, which is really tiny, fits her great.  The pendant I made is way too big, so I'll be making a new one.
So small!  Twin dragon fine silver cuff bracelet with a purple sapphire.
Her hair is done!  It is okay Cthulhu, you will get paint soon too!
I wanted her to have fun dreadlocked hair, but wasn't sure that would work with nylon.  So I braided a rainbow of embroidery floss into her hair.  This also took a very long time!  When braiding I was careful to try and grab hairs from different wefts to leave no large gaps between the braids where the cap would show through.  I'm super happy with how it turned out, the whole thing is really secure and not going to come undone by itself.  I used a scrap of Grip Strip from an old hardback iPhone case from to hold the wig in place.  In unrelated news, they aren't making cases for phones as old as mine anymore, drat!  The case I'm currently using will likely wear out before I want to buy another phone.  And looks like they discontinued the hardback case for iPads, which is sad because I love mine. 
The wig wefts were carefully coiled around the wig cap, and sewn in place by hand with a matching thread.  This also took longer than expected!  Expect everything to take a long time. :)  I ended up needing a 4th weft because I placed them so close together on the cap.  I didn't want any gaps.  Once all the wefts were on I sewed around the edge of the cap to tighten it to fit her head perfectly.  The hair ended up being a bit too thick... In the future I would spread the hair out thinner when making wig wefts.
These wig wefts also took about 2 hours to complete.  That is more like it!  I layered different shades of nylon hair over plain paper, secured them with masking tape, sewed them down with a line, folded the hair over itself, sewed back over the line again, and zigzagged over the line to lock everything in place.   Removing the masking tape was no fun, and then the paper was torn off.  Then I used fine tweezers to remove the little bits of paper from between the stitches, and added a bit of sealant on the stitches to help lock the hair in place.  
This is the result of 2 hours of rooting hair.  I don't have that much spare time to dedicate to this hobby right now... so time to try wefting!
First, I tried rooting the hairs 4 at a time directly into the wig cap with a beading needle.   I really didn't want to use glue on my wig, I wanted it to look as natural as possible.  Here you can also see that her dress is being colored.  I'm using watered down acrylic paints to dye areas a darker shade.
I kind of hate this part.  She needs a wig cap, but it looks like I'm suffocating her.  Saran wrap around the head and body, nylons over her head, and I used outdoor matte sealant to stiffen the fabric.  Later I made another cap I liked better, for that one I doubled over the fabric so there were 2 layers, and used 2 layers of sealant.
I designed and made her a little dress.  It is so tiny I had to sew the whole thing by hand.  In hindsight, I should have used a more flexible fabric, but it turned out pretty good anyway.
Still a little shy.
Just arrived from France!

Holiday Giveaway 2014

Update: 12-7-14

The winner has been pulled from the hat and notified!  Happy Holidays everyone!

This year I will be giving away a silver fairy ear cuff for the right ear.  This cuff is made from fine silver and was sculpted by hand.  It will potentially be cast in sterling silver in the near future and sold in my etsy shop, but this is the original piece!

I will accept entries until December 6th.  The lucky winner will be drawn from a santa hat on the 7th and notified by email. Winner must respond within 1 week or forfeit to the next name drawn.

To enter, send your name and email address to with the subject "Holiday Giveaway."

The ear cuff will be gift boxed in case the winner wants to give it as a present.

Good luck!